Guillermo Andrade of 424 kicked off Paris Fashion Week with a star studded runway debut on the Boulevard Saint-Germain. With previous co-signs from rappers like Kanye West and Westside Gunn, expectations were high, and Andrade delivered above and beyond with a Nike collaboration, live music from Yasiin Bey, and a list of famous faces on the runway that included British actor Will Poulter in a tight leather two piece, musician Bakar and Solange‘s musician/model son Julez Smith.

Both experimental in sound engineering and fabric design, the opening night show was split across several small rooms with nonchalant models clad head to toe in masterfully proportioned casual-wear. Andrade expressed a lifelong adoration for football with distressed jerseys throughout, and past and present football stars including Arsenal legend Robert Pires and Tottenham defender Destiny Udogie on the runway. Elsewhere leather, animal print and fine knitwear made an argument for more formal dressing as Andrade played with a more elevated streetwear offering.

Next up on the schedule was Louis Vuitton, locking off the iconic Louvre Museum to showcase their newest line, a joint effort between longtime collaborators Pharrell Williams & Nigo. The pair showcased the culmination of a two decade long partnership, offering a refined and mature approach to streetwear with rich textures and soft colours. 

Issey Miyake presented their show on Wednesday morning, kicking things off with their signature monochrome pleats, high collars and knitted hoods which flowed down into thin scarfs. Earth tones with brick accents quickly transpired into a vibrant display of colour. The runway was a technological feat, with two mechanical arms attached to square black panels on either side, slowly manoeuvring around the models. As the show came to a close, looks were deconstructed into square fabric panels, brandished above the models’ heads as they ran around the runway, as free and fluid as the clothing.

Feng Chen Wang’s show – an ode to Chinese folklore – on the Eastern side of Paris followed. Colossal shoes were constructed in the style of mythical creatures, and beast-like features permeated throughout most designs, from neck chokers to bags. Models sported brightly-coloured and upright hairstyles which made it seem as if they had just been exposed to high voltage currents backstage, which perfectly captured the vibe of the collection: utterly electric.

At 032c European traditionalism merged with more dystopian aesthetics. Creative Director Maria Koch played with sheer fabrics, ultra minis and heavy outerwear in a collection evocative of the 80s club scene. Classic garments were deconstructed and met with accents of khaki, pink and brown. Guests including Luka Sabbat, Rich the Kid and Ty Dolla $ign bopped their heads in harmony to an eclectic soundtrack by Michel Gaubert.

Mihara Yasuhiro’s designs also continued to evolve, with a particular focus on producing unique footwear. Quilted purses were transformed into high heels, high heels into tiny ice cream cones. Yasuhiro’s signature sun-dye technique was present yet again on both jumpers and outerwear.

Friday’s Dior show was hosted at L’Ecole Militaire, propping up a huge box structure. Famous faces including Kieran Culkin, Robert Pattinson, Gwendoline Christie, Anna Wintour and Kate Moss lined the front row, all eagerly awaiting the latest offerings from the Parisian atelier. The collection was an ode to the brand’s sophisticated legacy, with Creative Director Kim Jones stating that he wanted to ‘go back to the roots and concentrate on the quintessence of the house.’ Models moved across the vast runway in slim tailoring and ornate accessories; never one to shy from a challenge, Jones outfitted some in semi-opaque blindfolds. The collection was blanketed in a soft palette of pastel pinks and blues with shades of grey and brown that has come to define Jones’ era.

From strength to strength, Paris Fashion Week debutant and New York native Willy Chavarria hosted his show at the American Cathedral. Guests filled candle-lit pews for a deeply personal tenth anniversary show with live performances from friends of the brand J Balvin and Dorian Wood. The collection was rife with collaborations from adidas Originals to eBay and Tinder. Chavarria premiered a collaboration with adidas Originals, pairing oversized tracksuits with traditional cowboy hats and employing a diverse range of models including singer J Balvin, DJ Honey Dijon, and Fear of God founder Jerry Lorenzo.

Colm Dillane’s KidSuper closed out the Saturday as he continues to challenge preconceived notions of what a fashion show is. Held at a large hall in Northern Paris, the catwalk was centred around a tornado installation, created by kinetic artist Daniel Wurtzel.

As models walked around the stage, a variety of feathers, petals and paper were thrown into the man-made whirlwind. Yet another collaboration was revealed, this time with streetwear brand A Bathing Ape. Both brands pride themselves on their use of vivid colours and bold patterns, and this collection was no different. Dillane explained that he used to sell his t-shirts to customers waiting in line for Bape’s store in downtown New York – “it really is another full-circle moment for me.”

Legacy brands collaborating with fresh new talent is what the industry is all about, and we’re certainly here for it.

Fans of fashion were not left disappointed this week.

Photography and words by James Frost.